Hey there! My name is Angie and I’m an athlete who’s called Bocas del Toro home since 2005, and let me tell you, this place is nothing short of magical. I’ve surfed my way through the Panamanian circuit with the Bocas Surf Team, competed Brazilian Jiu Jitsu with the Bocas Fight Team, and paddled both cayuco and outrigger canoe in national races, even representing Bocas del Toro abroad. But above all, I’ve always had a special place in my heart for running. As a kid, I used to dash through races in Panama City, like the McDonald’s Race in Panama City and the Cerro Azul Race. It wasn’t until 2013 that I really got into running here in Bocas, and I’ve been hooked ever since! While I don’t consider myself a speed demon, I absolutely adore hitting the trails, and I want to share the joy of running in this tropical paradise with all my guests and visitors.
In recent years, Bocas del Toro has been undergoing a transformation, with major investments in infrastructure that have turned our old island roads into modern paths featuring bike lanes and sidewalks. The first big project kicked off around 2008 when the roads were paved for the first time. Fast forward to late 2022, and the construction of the new roads that will go around Isla Colon began. One of the most impressive stretches as of August 2024 is the road to Boca del Drago, and Bluff Road, which is paved up to Skully’s at the end of the Big Creek area. Two of my favorite running spots are the Bocas Hills (toward Boca del Drago) and Bluff Beach (partially paved, with some wonderfully muddy sections).
The Bocas Hills Run
Now, let’s talk about one of my all-time favorite runs! I kick off my morning adventures just outside of Saigon Adentro at Chikita Beach, facing the beautiful Playa Itsmito. This route stretches about 15 kilometers all the way to Boca del Drago (around 30km there and back). If you decide to run to Drago you can always take the bus back. If you decide to do this I recommend treating yourself to a well-deserved breakfast at Restaurante Yarisnori with amazing beach views of Boca del Drago.
The run begins alongside the sea, leading me to the Y-Griega. From there turn left and it’s a winding journey along paved roads and sidewalks that take me to Boca del Drago. Fair warning: those hills can be pretty challenging! But trust me, the breathtaking scenery makes every uphill battle worth it. If you’re on vacation and not quite up for a marathon, don’t hesitate to take it slower. Your knees will thank you for it!
One of the reasons I absolutely love this route is the stunning natural surroundings. Towering tropical trees line the path, home to howler monkeys that serenade you with their calls—get up early enough, and you’ll definitely hear them! The majestic ceiba trees stand tall along the roads, some draped with vines that cascade like nature’s curtains. Keep your eyes peeled for oropendolas and toucans flitting through the branches, and if you look up, you might just spot Amazonian parrots and parakeets soaring overhead. The nature here is nothing short of spectacular!
I like to lace up my running shoes and hit the road just before 6 a.m., starting around 5:45 a.m. By the time I reach Matumbal, the sun is just beginning to peek over the lagoons near Big Creek, creating a magical atmosphere. The combination of sunshine and moisture often leads to a mystical fog that covers the roads and trees to Drago—trust me, it’s a sight you won’t want to miss!
As I make my way to Drago, I pass a new neighborhood created by the Panamanian government to support the less fortunate in Bocas del Toro called ‘Barriada La Solución’. Just beyond this area lies one of the toughest hills, but don’t worry! On your right, you’ll be greeted by the sweet scent of ginger lilies blooming in the air, while to the left, you might spot a troop of howler monkeys reminding everyone that they’re the true residents of this island. Keep going, and you’ll come across a massive 500,000-gallon water tank, storing water from nearby pumping stations. Speaking of which, there are eight of these little stations scattered along the route, each adorned with cute tropical art featuring toucans, red frogs, and dolphins. It’s a delightful touch that brightens up what could otherwise be a mundane cement building.
Soon enough, you’ll reach the Colonia Santeña, a small community that’s also home to the Drago Caves. Just a bit further, you’ll hit the 8-kilometer mark. If you’re hoping to make it back in time for breakfast at Saigon Bay Bed and Breakfast, I recommend turning around here to ensure you’re back by 8 a.m. If you’re feeling adventurous, though, keep going.
The road opens up past some fields and the island’s garbage dump, which, while not the most scenic, isn’t too bad from the road. As you continue ahead, you’ll pass a few small villages and charming churches until you reach the end of the road. If you turn left towards Yarisnori and manage to get there past 9 AM, you can enjoy a delightful breakfast with coffee and fresh natural juices right in front of the beach—complete with spectacular views.
I absolutely love this road! As of August 2024, most of the bike lane, painted in red, is complete, with only a few small sections still under construction. The bike lane is wide and comfortable, making it a pleasure to run on. While you might see a few other runners, they are relatively scarce in Bocas. However, if you head out early in the morning, you’re likely to encounter more racing bikers on their way to Drago and back.
The road is also very well lit, so if you prefer running before sunrise or late in the evenings, you’ll feel safe and secure. This is truly a wonderful run and, in my opinion, one of the best places in Panama to lace up your shoes and hit the pavement.
@angiewhittemore7 30km hasta drago saliendo 4:45am desde Playa Istmito, Isla Colon. #bocasrunningclub #panamarunners #bocasdeltoro #athlete #runnersofitiktok #panama🇵🇦 ♬ original sound - angiebocas
Bluff Road Run
Starting from Chiquita Beach and heading towards Bluff Road, there are several routes you can choose depending on the type of run you’re looking for. Here are my four go-to runs:
- Big Creek Loop: A quick 5 km run from Chiquita Beach to just before the beach ends on the right side of Big Creek and back.
- To Skully’s: This route is a bit longer, totaling a 7 km round-trip to Skully’s all paved road and sidewalks with lots of sea views.
- Creek Run: If you’re up for a challenge, run to the creek just past Tiger’s Tail and Ohana for an 8.65 km round-trip (Sometimes you have to if the creek is too big to run over).
- La Coralina 10km Run: For those looking to stretch their legs a bit more, the run to the entrance of the original La Coralina residence measures 10 km round-trip.
Finally, you can embark on the adventure to Bluff Beach, where the distance varies from 14 km to a more ambitious 20 km round-trip.
As of August 2024, the paved section of the road extends only up to Skully’s. Similar to the road leading to Drago, this stretch features a red bike lane and a sidewalk. However, the Bluff side of Isla Colón is not as developed as the Drago side, although it’s still quite passable.
Once you pass Skully’s, the trail transitions to a beach road, which can sometimes be challenging, especially just past Tiger’s Tail and Ohana. The creek can become quite big during heavy rains, making it nearly impassable by foot if tides and waves are high. For this reason, I always recommend running towards the Drago side if rain is in the forecast. However, on drier days, this run is breathtaking, especially during the early morning when the sunrise paints the Caribbean Sea in stunning hues.
The Paunch area is relatively well-kept, especially near the Dumpers surf spot, where road development seems more advanced. Between La Curva and Bluff, however, the road can be rough, with caliche rock and mud. If you choose to run here, be prepared for muddy shoes! But don’t worry; once you pass the entrance to Bluff, the path returns to a standard dirt road with a lovely tree canopy overhead.
For a longer run, aiming for The View at Oasis is a great option, clocking in around 16 km round-trip. If you venture a couple hundred meters past the gate at the end of Bluff Road and back, you can easily complete a satisfying 20 km run.
This side of Bocas doesn’t feature many hills compared to the Drago side, but there are a few, with the hill just past La Curva being the most significant. It’s a short climb, though, so it’s manageable.
Running along Bluff Road, the sea will always be to your right, providing stunning sunrise views if you head out early. I often find it hard to maintain my pace and focus when the scenery is so gorgeous, and I frequently pause to capture videos of the breathtaking views. It truly is a beautiful run, and I can’t wait for the road here to reach completion.
If you start your run towards Bluff Beach early enough, you’ll likely encounter a variety of wildlife, including sloths, howler monkeys, toucans, and oropendolas. I often spot a Central American agouti, locally known as ñeque, right after I pass the gate onto Bluff Road. These creatures are quite rare on Isla Colón, making each sighting a delightful surprise!
Bluff is an incredibly picturesque area to run. During surf season, the waves crash dramatically against the shore, and some sections open up to the beach, offering stunning views. If the tide is low enough, you can even run along the beach—just be cautious during surf season, as the beach area can be narrow. Running on soft sand is not recommended due to the risk of injury, and taxis are infrequent, particularly in the early morning hours.
Conclusion
With ongoing construction, Bocas del Toro is shaping up to be a fantastic destination for running. As of this article, Playa Istmito is also getting a bike lane path, creating an ideal space for running right next to the beach. It’s a perfect starting and finishing point for all the runs mentioned above.
If you’re interested in running in Bocas del Toro and would like to join someone or get some tips, don’t hesitate to reach out! I regularly document my runs with videos on my Strava account, so feel free to follow me for an inside look at what running in Bocas is like: Strava Account. Happy running!
2 Responses
This is a terrible list and doesn’t account for all the mud and dogs you have to avoid.
Thanks for your input Bluff road can be muddy but as for dogs not really a problem at least not for me and I run here almost all the time. The road to Drago has no mud all running paths.